Heathens and Christians side by side

The sun shines down on the line forming in front of the boat Victoria at Stadshusbron (the City Hall Bridge). Everyone is waiting for the same thing, a trip out to what is said to be Sweden's first city - Birka. When the weather is as good as it is today, you are really happy to find a seat up on the deck, the trip out is a feast for the eyes. We are guided in Swedish and English which is much appreciated by both tourists and Stockholmers.

Arriving at Björkö (Birch Island), we are met by guides clad in dated clothing and a large group of visitors quickly form that walk away towards the ancient remains area. We have decided to join a dramatized guided tour somewhat later on in the day and turn instead towards the Chapel of Ansgar and the "Christian" Birka.

At the chapel we are offered coffee by the Swedish Church and are told a story about the chapel and Ansgar, who came to Birka to make Christians of the heathens. The original church he built on Björkö has not yet been found and the present chapel was built as late as 1930. Fantastic paintings depict Ansgar's life; how he was plundered by the Vikings on his way to Birka and how he wanted to die a martyr's death, offering everything for Jesus.

When we have received insight on Birka's Christianity, we make our way back to the age of the Vikings - to the reconstructed Viking village. Tents made of cow hide stand taut over the entrance and two "Vikings" teach the younger visitors how to shoot with bows and arrows that the Vikings made themselves. In the village, the iron smith has laid out his tools in front of a live fire and is forging coins. The tradesman sells bracelets, cowhides and small mouth harps which he willingly demonstrates. Curious children ask questions and are fascinated by the Vikings working in the village.

At one-thirty it is time for the dramatized guide tour and the actual highlight of the day. We are not alone; children and adults everywhere crowd in front of Snerrir and Brynhilde. Brynhilde, the well-to-do tradeswoman and Snerrir, one of the king's warriors, take us into a weekday in the Viking days of Birka. As a sidekick Tora shows up, Brynilde's slave, who with nasty black eyes and a nosebleed tells about the existence of the poor during medieval times.

One small girl in front of me exclaims "Mommy, this is the best guided tour I have ever been on" and I, despite being many years older, am inclined to agree.

Before it is time to go onboard the boat and return back to the city, we have time for a visit to the museum for more in-depth information about the age of the Vikings. It has been an instructive day, one that I will not forget.

By: Lisa, editor