Svartsö

It only takes about an hour and a half with the Cinderella boats out to the island, so there is no problem if you only want to go out for the day. If you want, you can extend your visit to the archipelago by one or more nights.

We chose to stay one night and on short notice were able to get a small boathouse located just by the water. In the middle of the high season we thought it would be impossible to arrange accommodations, but with only two days notice we were lucky. The boathouse was perfect to two people. One bunk bed, one burner and a table with two chairs - all in 6m2 and it didn't even feel crowded!

The whole island breathes of welcoming atmosphere and after a warm welcome by the staff in the small harbour café we take a short walk before lunch.

There are two restaurants on the island, Svartsö Tavern and the Herrgård Boarding House. We trek our way to the boarding house to look at the lunch menu. Lunch of the day is served as well as different à la carte courses. The prices are perhaps somewhat higher than the quality of both the food and service, but we leave satisfied. The small lake behind the boarding house is used as a swimming pool by the youngest guests of the boarding house and the temperature is much more agreeable than that of the sea.

After lunch it feels right to take a long walk. A tour around the entire island takes about a whole day, so we enjoy a walking trail of about 10 km. There are a few cars on the island, but we mostly meet four-wheelers and mopeds before we turn off onto a small forest path.

We receive a tip from an islander about a lake in the woods beside the trail and since our swimsuits are packed and the sweat started to drop already after a few kilometers, a swim is a given. We have gotten lost however and ask a family for help to find our way. Luckily they were just on the way to the same lake so we are guided the whole way there. The lake is not easy to find but when we arrive we find it was worth the trouble - smooth cliff rock, an afternoon sun that warms and 23 degree water - can it get any better?!

Svartsö Tavern
The tavern deserves a small gold star for its good food and excellent service. With a table reservation outside, we are seated at seven o'clock exactly in the outdoor section. After a cloudy day the sun peeps out and we are offered a wonderful evening sun setting above the water.

I am not a food critic but I can say that the food was fantastic. Toast Skagen for starters, grilled tuna fish with lobster and mussels as a main course, rounding off with a chocolate truffle - everything tasted fantastic and I want to warmly recommend the tavern that is so much more than what you usually find in the archipelago!

The time is already twelve midnight when we make our way back to our little boathouse incredibly satisfied with our day on Svartsö. The sky is filled with stars; we see at least five falling stars and sit down on the jetty to admire the fantastic night sky before it’s time to creep into our beds.

By: Lisa, editor